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Crotch Gussets 101


What is a gusset?

A diamond-shaped or triangular insert in a seam to provide expansion or reinforcement. Gussets are found in sleeves, pillows, pocketbooks, and—you guessed it—pants! 

The word "gusset" was first used in 13th century France to describe the armpit of a suit of armor. Throughout history, gussets have been used to add shape to T-shaped garments (think medieval linen tunics). Tailors also add gussets when a clients’ clothing needs more structure, or a little added space. They weren’t as common in ready-to-wear clothing until recently, due to added cost and manufacturing. 

What is a crotch gusset in pants?

Dovetail Workwear’s crotch gusset is actually 3 gussets! We double-stitch 2 small triangle pieces onto the sides of a rectangle. This full diamond-shaped gusset is sewn into where the leg inseams, front seams, and back seams meet—at the crotch of your pants.

Animated illustration showing where the crotch gusset is located.
The gusset is a triangular area of fabric inside the crotch seam.

How does a gusset work?

A gusset strengthens the pants’ crotch by redistributing stress points on a seam, so there are no longer 4 seams coming together at a single point that sustains a lot of movement. If you’ve ever ripped the butt of your pants, it’s probably because your pants didn’t have a gusset!

A crotch gusset also helps with breathability, and mobility. Before Dovetail, the most common place you’ve seen a gusset is in your underwear. Some folks think it’s a secret pocket. Lucky for you, we’ve made pants with real pockets—no more panty storage!

How do you make a gusseted crotch?

It’s pretty simple! Each side of the diamond-shaped piece of fabric is stitched to the seams in the crotch.

Kitty shows off the crotch gusset on her Freshley Overalls in Grey Canvas.

What does a crotch gusset look like?

The greatest thing about gusseted crotches is they’re not noticeable, unless you’re in a full-on squat. In fact, because the fabric gets pulled down, crotch gussets can help prevent camel toe.

Which Dovetail Workwear pants have a crotch gusset? 

Alllllll of these!