The Sexist History of Pockets
Tie-on pockets displayed in Amsterdam's Tassen Museum of Bags and Purses, via Kotomi_ on Flickr
Where did pockets come from?
Through the middle ages, satchels ruled supreme. Clothing featured a slit into which you could reach to access a small bag that held your belongings. Then came the 17th century when, finally, someone said, âWhy not just sew the pouch⌠INTO the clothes?!â Even those rudimentary pockets were gender-biased. Menâs pockets were, as today, sewn into every garment: coats, waistcoats, breeches, pants â they could access the things they carried anytime. Women werenât so lucky. Women often wore large tie-on pockets lodged underneath their petticoats. If she wanted to get one of her items, sheâd have to undress, making pockets useless in public.
"The Bicycle Suit", cartoon from the Punch magazine (1895).
When more fitted clothing came into style, tie-on pockets fell out of fashion. Still, our sisters of the past continued to fight the good fight. Founded in 1891, the Rational Dress Society encouraged women to dress for health, ditching corsets in favor of clothing like boneless stays, bloomers, and loose trousers that allowed for movement, especially bicycling. It hit its pinnacle just around the turn of the century, when menâs suits sported somewhere around 15 pockets
"One supremacy there is in menâs clothing⌠its adaptation to pockets," New York Times reporter Charlotte P. Gilman wrote in 1905. "Women have from time to time carried bags, sometimes sewn in, sometimes tied on, sometimes brandished in the hand, but a bag is not a pocket."
In 1910, suffragette suits with 6+ pockets became all the rage. As the World Wars began, women recruited to work turned to more practical clothing, with trousers and large pockets becoming the norm for women through the 1940s.
A comparison of the average size of a womanâs pocket (red) and a manâs pocket (yellow), via Pudding.cool
Why are menâs pockets bigger than womenâs?
Of course, everything changed when WWII ended, and men returned to their jobs. An ultra-feminization of womenâs fashion, led by Christian Diorâs 1947 New Look, shrunk or removed functional pockets in womenâs clothing. In fact, Dior is quoted as saying âMen have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration." Combined with the growing designer handbag market, designers made womenâs pockets miniscule or worse⌠fake!
From leggings to low-rise pants to skinny jeans, fashion brands continue to make womenâs pants that âlook goodââand pockets that work terribly. A 2018 study of 80 pairs of jeans found that the average pockets in womenâs jeans are 48% shorter and 6.5% narrower than menâs pockets. They also calculated that only 10% of the womenâs pants had front pockets that could accommodate a whole handâŚ. While a hand could fit in 100% (ALL) of the menâs pant styles.
Women Need Better Pockets
For women with hard work to do, excellent pocketing contributes hugely to safety and performance. Your pants are a tool, and if your tool is inadequate, you canât do a good job. Tool belts can drag on the waist (especially if the pants are not well fitted), causing discomfort. In addition, an encumbered waist can drag the pant leg down, becoming a trip hazard. In our pants and overalls, our comprehensive pocketing system becomes the tool belt that you wearâsafely, and beautifully. Dovetail has put 1 million real pockets on working women across North America in just a few yearsâ and weâre just getting started.
One hand in our pocketâ minimum.
- Where hands land in each pocket â it must be natural, and work for any hand size.
- If they obstruct any movement. For example, our long tool pocket is low, flush and slender so tools donât bang around.
- If the pockets maximize real estate and protection. Some of our pockets have open bottoms so sharp objects donât cut into the fabric.
- Utility is also checked against how the system works best for style. Dovetail doesn't sacrifice fit or function â we ensure the best of both. We continue to make improvements from weartester and consumer feedback.
Product namesake Britt asked for a Hip Slot⢠to store her tape measure. Initially we thought to plunk in front for easy access. Then we realized it would cut into the wearer when bending, so we moved it to the back right hip â in reach, but out of the way.
The front pocket of the Freshley overalls has a Twine Holeâ˘. You can thread twine, wire, yarn or any other stringy thing through this neat bib eyelet to keep from losing your spool.
With a variety of placements (back pocket, side thigh, hidden at the waistband and some front pockets), zippered pockets keep your essentials on hand but of the way.